Background

The Australian Ark Foundation is a charitable not-for-profit organisation that seeks to help preserve and protect Australia’s heritage vineyards through building a fine wine agenda based on our country’s unique advantage. Although modest ‘old vine’ projects have been rolled out through the decades, little collaborative or consistent effort has been established to connect and promote this living heritage as a way of differentiating Australian fine wine. This is largely because Australia’s old vine story has been fragmented through the generations, a result of major social and economic upheavals during the 20th Century and beyond. Although still disjointed, on account of its complexity and multi-strand story, Australia’s heritage vineyards, are the legacy of big ambitions and the generational belief that Australia has the exceptional sites and skills to produce some of the world’s greatest wines.

‘Australia possesses the largest acreage of surviving 19th and early 20th Century wine-grape vineyards in the world while also boasting a rich legacy of pre-phylloxera, heirloom grapevines; genetic material that can be traced back to the earliest days of settlement in Australia.’
Andrew Caillard MW, The Australian Ark (2024)

Historical Context

Quarantine regulations, first introduced by the Australian colonies from 1875 onwards, ensured colonial borders were closed to new importations of vinestock material. These strict controls, which have lasted for over 150 years, have led to an unforeseen advantage. Growers, vignerons and scientists, were obliged to protect, preserve and improve existing vinestock, much of which was related to the Busby and Macarthur importations of the 1830s. With government dispensation and rigorous isolation, new imported material was allowed into the country at various times, including by Francois de Castella in 1908 and by key winemakers during the 1950s and 1960s. Nonetheless the early importations of European vinestock, planted throughout the 19th and early 20th Centuries, combined with enlightened science and locally bred clones have led to the preservation and regeneration of heirloom vineyards in New South Wales, Victoria, South Australia, Western Australia and Tasmania. 

Through epigenetics, environmental resilience and multi-generational farming, these heirloom grapevines represent an important foundation of the Australian wine industry. Aside from the remarkable old vineyards of Australia’s classic wine regions, heritage selections and clones add a further richness to the story. Many of them represent generations of effort while contributing significantly to wine quality, regional definition and Australian prestige. The most famous of these are Hunter Valley Semillon (1820s), MV6 Pinot Noir (1832), Houghton Clone Cabernet Sauvignon (1837) and Tahblik Clone Shiraz (1860), SA125 and SA126 (1908). Widespread plantings of riesling, shiraz, grenache and mataro are directly related to James Busby’s 1832 importation and serve as the backbone to South Australia’s red wine narrative. In addition, more recently imported clones such as Gingin and P58 Chardonnay (1950s) have a backstory that further exemplify the great ambitions of Australian growers and vignerons.

While the Barossa is home to the largest acreage of ancient vines in Australia, most wine regions are brushed with the similar dustings of gold. Margaret River, for instance, possesses a vine ancestry that is profoundly intertwined with Australia’s pre-phylloxera vine legacy.  And Victoria possesses wide plantings of old vines as well as offering wines based on heirloom vinestock of fascinating provenance. Historically, the inspiring stories surrounding old vines, heirloom vinestock and generational ambition have rarely been told as a united cause. While some regions have quantified their vineyard resources through old vine charters and registries, notably Barossa, McLaren Vale and Swan Valley, their connection with multi-generational ambitions and purpose is less understood or quantified. In addition, the old vine story is incomplete without the legacy of vinestock transmission, pre-phylloxera genetic material, heirloom rootstocks and singular Australian clones and selections. 

‘Our heritage vine story needs further unravelling by combining science with historical anecdotes or evidence. It promises to be an ongoing sphere of research with further literature exploration, genetic sequencing and DNA analysis.’
Louisa Rose, The Australian Ark Foundation

Many European scientists and agricultural visionaries of yesteryear believed that Australia would become the France of the Southern Hemisphere. While this phrase is outdated, it was a prediction that Australia would become a force in fine wine; that its wines would compete and contrast with the great growths of Europe. From a technical perspective, this has been achieved and there are individual fine wines which are well respected and enjoyed around the world. But there are only a few that have achieved currency at the very top level, especially in the bellwether secondary and collectible markets.

Although the cause for fine Australian wine is appreciated and promoted by some circles in the wine trade, the momentum and sentiment has been hampered to some extent by entrenched Eurocentric perceptions of class and aesthetics. A fine wine agenda – rather than a broad-brush approach – combined with a united cause rallying around Australia’s old vine heritage could bring clarity, fresh perspectives and excitement. While the plan is to support wines made from Australia’s historic vineyards, it is clear from the success of quality frameworks in regions such as Burgundy and Bordeaux that this project will beneficially contribute to the wider appreciation of Australian wine across every price point.

Australian wine and the current environment

When compiled and interpreted as a whole, Australian fine wine is completely different to any other country. The combination of living heritage and forward thinking brings a profound richness and depth to its story. Settled by people from all points of the compass, each region possesses a unique and meaningful narrative. In addition, Australia’s remarkable assortment of surviving old vines and heirloom vinestock represent ambition of a generational kind; where strength can be found in nurture, succession and adaptation to change. Many of these heritage vineyards are making some of the most consistent and beautiful wines in the world.

In addition, a need to protect and preserve surviving old vineyards and heirloom vines is well-recognised within Australia’s wine making communities. In 2007, the Yalumba Wine Company launched its old vine charter which established a meaningful context for old vines. This was updated in 2009 and rebranded the Barossa Old Vine Charter. While it has been effective in providing a structure for the description of old vines, the chronology and overall classifications need to be updated to reflect the age and provenance of Australia’s mature vineyards, the country’s unique pre-phylloxera genetic material, and singular clones and selections. 

The Australian Ark Foundation will also have a wider brief to support our wine industry by promoting wine as a cultural necessity. Consumed in moderation, wine promotes conversations, community spirit and civilization while its great wines contribute significantly to Australia’s reputation and prestige. Additionally, the fine wine market is evolving with new generations of drinkers searching for new references. Concepts that have been taken for granted for over one hundred years or more are now being seen as outdated or disconnected to the realities of contemporary lifestyles and expectations. This does not mean, however, that history or heritage have no place in fine wine. 

The Australian Wine industry, like many of its counterparts, is experiencing significant challenges. Changes in consumption patterns, social expectations etc have led to declining national wine sales and concerns about the future economic viability of grape growing and winemaking. Climate change, urbanisation, technical innovation and generational succession also portend changes in methodologies, investment and outlooks. The conflicting themes of downward price pressure and premiumisation also promise continuing debate about how the wine industry will adapt and evolve. While the industry will adapt to these changes, the fine wine trade will become increasingly important to Australian wine over the forthcoming years. 

International Context 

South Africa’s Old Vine Project, the UK’s international Old Vine Registry and France’s Francs de Pied movement, are creating momentum and recognition for vineyards and wines based on old vines and heirloom vinestock. While these movements are commendable and visionary in outlook, The Australian Ark Foundation has identified a need for Australian vignerons to control and purpose their own story, rather than only belonging to an international register. While it is the intention to work collaboratively with these projects, our wine community must quantify its own resources and harness them to an appealing, unique and engaging Australian fine wine narrative

Overall ambition

The Australian Ark Foundation plans to build a fine wine agenda through the prism of Australia’s heirloom vineyards and multi-generational ambitions. It will also generate currency through other storied themes connected to history, heritage, ingenuity and advancement etc. Ultimately the goal is to elevate the reputation of Australian wine with fresh, authentic and unhindered perspectives. To achieve these lofty goals, it is envisaged that the Ark’s stakeholders will work collaboratively with all levels of our industry, including regional and national bodies, to drive greater greater global recognition for our unique viticultural resources in addition to the depth and breadth of fine wine that they underpin.